Camping on Lizard Island, Queensland, Australia

Last Trip November 2004



I highly recommend a two week camping holiday on Lizard Island. It’s a perfect place to escape from the world and enjoy white sandy beaches, superb coral reef snorkelling and good hiking. The Island regularly appears in newspaper and magazine articles listing the top ten beaches in the world. It’s also more or less deserted; you can literally have an entire beach to yourself.

I have been to the Island twice, and on both occasions stayed in the tiny national park campsite rather than the exclusive 80 guest Lizard Island Resort. The resort and its grounds are off limits to campers, so for them there are no shops, showers or restaurants. There is, however, one small bar, The Marlin Bar, open two evenings a week, that attracts resort staff, marine researchers, passing yachtsman and campers.

Mangrove Beach - this tree has moved since this photo was taken



Trawler beach - Good shade



View, looking South, over Watson's Bay Beach. The campsite is at the near left of the photo where a path emerges from
some trees and continues to the beach. The Resort and its beach appear on the further away beach, behind Watson's
Bay and an outcrop of rock know as Chinaman's Ridge. The Airstrip can be made out as a streak of white on the upper
left of the photo. The Boats moored off Watson's Bay belong to passing sailors.



There are five such place in the Campsite. Why did I take such a small tent!



There is a great lookout over the blue lagoon reached from a path beginning between Mangrove Beach
 and Trawler Beach. From this path it's possible to reach Lizard Head and Coconut Beach.



Climbing down to Coconut Beach

Information On The Island

Location - Inside the Great Barrier Reef and 27km from the north eastern coast of Australia, 100km north of Cooktown, 240km north of Cairns. See Map

Size - At most 4km long and 3km wide, 2,500 acres or 7 Square Km.

Terrain - Arid and rocky with grasslands, wooded slopes, a few mangrove swamps and some sand dunes. The highest point on the island, Cooks Looks, is 359m about sea level. The are Coconut Palms at the resort and at Coconut Beach.

Population - No more than about 200 people. Up to 80 guests in the resort supported by 80 members of staff. 4 staff at the research station and accommodation for up to 30 visitors. 5 places in the campsite with a maximum of 5 people per plot. A few sailors moored in Watson Bay, very few, or no, day trippers. Outside of the resort, and the resort beach, the island is extremely quiet.

Buildings and Roads - There are buildings at the resort and research station only. The short road between the resort and airstrip is tarmac, the longer track between the airstrip and research station is dirt / sand.

Climate - The rainy season runs from January to March. The dry season from July to September. December and January are the hottest months of the year when temperatures vary between 25 and 35 degrees Celsius. July and August are the coolest months with temperatures varying between 20 and 28 degrees. Water temperature is more or less constant throughout the year at about 27 degrees. Lizard Island has many beaches protected from strong winds. More climate details here. Current weather forecast here.

Wildlife - Swimming on Lizard Island is safe. Because it lies 30km from the coast it is free from both crocodiles and stinging jellyfish, both of which are a severe problem on the neighboring mainland. The harmless White Tip Reef Shark is a common sight snorkelling around the island - don't be alarmed. In common with all tropical waters, swimmers should avoid handling both the reef and marine life, and should use protective footwear when swimming. There are several species of lizard on the island. Apart from humans, the only mammal on the island is the 'black flying fox' bat. The only dangerous wildlife is the very rarely seen poisonous brown-headed snake, but it should not deter walkers in protective footwear from venturing into the bush. Off path adventurers will encounter green ants which do bite, but they are only unpleasant, not dangerous. Unlike some Great Barrier Reef Islands, there are no sand flies on the beaches, and biting insects are in general only a mild annoyance. Nevertheless, campers should bring a good repellent (50% DEET), and wear trousers and a long sleeved short at sunset.

History - The Island was discovered and named by Captain Cook in 1770. Aboriginals did not live on Lizard Island, but did consider it a sacred place they visited for important meetings and initiations. In 1880 a small settlement was establish, the ruins of which can be seen toady (Watson's Cottage), but it subsequently failed and was abandoned. In 1939 the Island was declared national park. The fist significant development occurred when the research station opened in 1973 after obtaining permission to lease a portion of the park. In 1975 the resort followed. In 1999 P&O purchased the resort and in 2000 they completed a major refurbishment which transformed it onto Australia's premiere Island Getaway.

Park Regulations - Fishing (line, net & harpoon) is prohibited in the waters surrounding Lizard Island. For campers, that's a shame, as it leaves them with no access to fresh food. Lighting fires anywhere on the island is also prohibited. Domestic animals are banned.

Facilities - The Resort is off limits except to guests, and there are no shops or restaurants outside it. Therefore campers will have to bring all the food they need. Bear in mind the reduced shelf life implied by 40 degree centigrade temperatures. We took eggs, lemons, onions, garlic, dried fruits, pasta, rice, dried peas, olive oil, spices, pancake mix, canned products and muesli bars. There is a long walk between the runway and the campsite, so moving your luggage to the campsite on the first day is a real slog. Some avoid this hassle by hiring a sea place to drop them off at the campsite beach.

The Resort is one of the most in Australia, and is often advertised by them as an exclusive private paradise - therefore the resort certainly does not encourage or assist campers! There is, however, one bar, The Marlin Bar, which is open two evenings a week. This bar is run by the resort primarily for their staff, but campers, yachtsmen and marine biologists are also welcome. In the Marlin fishing season, September to November, its particularly busy. The resort staff we met at the Marlin Bar were very friendly and kind, and I was extremely grateful to the resort for making the Marlin Bar available to all comers.

There is no GSM reception on the island, but there is a public telephone outside the Marlin bar. There is also a place one can leave rubbish and a donation box.

The Island is difficult to reach so the small campsite is often empty, therefore don't count on any social life. On my last two week stay I met only two other groups of campers; one group of three guys and one couple. We also met a few sailors moored off the campsite beach (Watson's Bay), some of whom had children. The resort guests don't generally visit the Marlin Bar, and as a camper you are unlikely to have any contact with them. I have been asked if this a suitable camping holiday for families with children: well don't be put off, I would have loved this as a child, but understand that the facilities are very limited, the resort is absolutely off limits, and don't count on meeting other families.

Fresh water can be obtained from an iron water pump situated 250m from the campsite. The water needs to be boiled or filtered before drinking. Unfortunately my ceramic and active charcoal filter failed to improve the taste of this rusty water. If the pump was out of action one could always sneak into the toilets in the Marlin Bar and fill up a water bottle from the sink. Don’t take your shower at the pump – soap will run down into the cistern.

For cooking the National Parks Service has provided a gas stove and barbecue in the campsite. They need to do this because it's prohibited to light fires on the island, and the airline you fly with will not allow Butane or Petrol on the plane (although I guess many people going on camping trips around the world sneak small gas canisters into their bags anyway). You will, of course, still need to bring pots, pans, matches and if possible a big plastic washing up bowl or better a bucket.

You do not need to pack many warm clothes. Even at night the temperature is balmy. No need for table and chairs, they are provided in the campsite. There are also posts designed to make it possible to suspend a tarpaulin above your tent (see campsite photo). Medical emergency services & evacuation is available at great cost through the Resort, travel insurance to cover that eventuality seems like a good idea.

In Cairns there are several good camping shops that sell and rent equipment. Indeed, it would be possible to hire all the camping equipment you need in Cairns rather than lug it all the way to Australia.

Camping Permits & Cost - There are only five places available in the campsite. Book over the internet and well in advance. The cost is approximately $4 AUD per day.

Getting to the Island - Access is by plane or private boat. I can suggest two cost effective ways to fly:

First, there is MacAir. They run two flights a day from Cairns to the island on a small twin prop plane. These flights can be booked by calling the Quantas telephone sales line. In Nov 2002 flights with Quantas / MacAir cost $500 AUD per person return. The luggage allowance is only 16kg per person, but in the event we were allowed onto the flight with 50kg each at no penalty. Had the plane been full we were told that our luggage would have been sent on the next flight with space. In peak season, when the resort is busy and the flights are often full, this could have proved a nightmare. The return ticket is flexible, you can call from the island to change it.

Secondly, one can try to charter a private flight with Marine Air Seaplanes in Cooktown. The cost of the seaplane will be similar, but there will be no luggage allowance hassles. An additional advantage for campers is that the plane can drop you on the beach opposite the campsite, thus saving a long walk from the airstrip.

Things to do on the Island

Beaches

Begin by walking to the Research Station and then along the coast to Mangrove and Trawler Beach. I believe this route takes in the best beaches on the Island. Also, walk from the Research Beach round to the Resort Beach. Note, Resort Beach is national park, not private property, so campers can visit it if they wish - not that I did during my time on Lizard Island.

Walking

'Cooks Look', 368m, the highest point on Lizard Island, is a great climb with a well marked trail.
On August 12th 1770 Captain Cook, on his first voyage of discovery in the Endeavour, landed on, and named, Lizard Island. For months he had been slowly working his way north along the previously undiscovered Queensland Coast. Navigating the Endeavour along this coast and inside the Great Barrier Reef is one of Cooks great achievements, but it was extremely risky. Indeed he had already damaged and repaired the ship at what is now called Cooktown (93km from Lizard); and he had subsequently decided that he must quit the coast and find an escape route through the reef out to open ocean. To this aim, he climbed to the highest point of Lizard Island, and spent many hours observing the surrounding reef.

In Captain Cooks own words:

Before I quit this Island I shall describe it. It lies as I have before observed about 5 Leagues from the mainland, it is about 8 Miles in circuit and of a height sufficient to be seen 10 or 12 Leagues. It is mostly high land very rocky and barren except on the NW side where there are some Sandy bays and low land which last is covered with thin long grass, trees, the same as upon the mainland. Here is also fresh water in two places, the one is a running stream with the water a little brackish, the other is a standing pool close behind the sandy beach of good sweet water. The only land animals we saw here were Lizards and these seemed to be pretty plenty whence occasioned my naming the Island Lizard Island. The inhabitants of the mainland visit this Island at some seasons of the year for we saw the ruins of several of their huts and heaps of shells etc.

This extract is taken from his online journals, see here. Penguin Classics publish "The Journals of Captain Cook", an idea Lizard island read.

Because the climb to Cooks Look is in places tiring, the resort advises their guests to tackle it early in the morning before the sun reaches full intensity. Consequently, my advice is wander up at noon or for sunset and have the place to yourself!

Other Walks - I was very disappointed that the National Park service had not created more paths on Lizard Island - but the upside of that is more adventure off trail. On walks between beaches (eg Watson’s Bay to Turtle Beach & Coconut Bach to Crystal Beach) stay low and walk over boulders rather that going higher up through the forest. If you do go higher be prepared to serious battle with scrub and green ants. My most exciting such walk was from from Cooks Look to Crystal Beach. My advice is to bring a pair of two way radios and some rope to help the girlfriend make it from Mangrove beach to Coconut Beach. Alternatively, find the existing rope tied to a rock on Lizard head which drops down to the waters edge on Coconut Beach.

Snorkelling

Take fins and a short thin wetsuit. There is some good scuba diving right on Lizard Island, but for campers I am not sure this information is of any use. Even if you were able to get the resort to sell you air, carrying tanks and equipment to, and then around, the island would be very impractical.

Watson’s Bay - The South East end of Watson’s Bay has many impressive Giant Clams.

Mangroves on Mangrove Beach - Don't be afraid, snorkel right through the Mangroves at high tide, its an amazing and unique experience.

Turtle Beach round Granite Head to the next beach along called Mermaid Cove - Turtle Beach has some impressive Giant Clams. Rounding Granite Head I saw several white tip reef sharks, turtles and lovely rock formations. There are also good free diving opportunities here. The coral in Mermaid Grove is breathtaking. Of course coral takes hundred of years to grow and is easily damaged so never crash your fins into it. This long snorkel was the best I found on the island, and since you will be in the water for a long time (you have to get back as well) it is probably best done with a wetsuit. Don't go naked - after Resort Beach, Mermaid Grove is popular with resort guests!

Blue Lagoon, Mangrove to Palfrey Island - There were some interesting soft corals including sea grass in this area.

Other Stuff to Do

The Marine Biology Research Station on the Island is open once a week and runs a free tour open to all island visitors. Check the time here.

Day trips - Day trippers can only really reach Lizard Island by plane which makes for a very expensive journey. Consequently there are very very few day trippers to Lizard Island, which is great news for everyone else. In our eight days I saw another couple on the beach on only three occasions. The Australians do not approve of nudity on beaches, but here it’s so quiet you can sunbathe naked, snorkel naked and make love in the surf...